EXCEPTIONALLY FINE CONFEDERATE MISSISSIPPI FIELD OFFICER’S FROCK COAT & MATCHING TROUSERS BY WILLIAM POOLEY OF MEMPHIS, TN

EXCEPTIONALLY FINE CONFEDERATE MISSISSIPPI FIELD OFFICER’S FROCK COAT & MATCHING TROUSERS BY WILLIAM POOLEY OF MEMPHIS, TN

02-23306

This beautifully tailored uniform consists of a full-length, double-breasted frock coat and matching trousers of a green/gray woolen broadcloth in a tabby weave. The weave appears to be about 60 threads per inch in both the warp and the weft. The warp looks to be very fine brown cotton with a gray woolen weft. The finely made, obviously expensive cloth is light in weight but holds its shape well and does not wrinkle. The coat has a 6-piece body consisting of two front panels, two side back panels, and two central back panels with a center seam. There are seven coat-size Confederate script “I” buttons on each side of the breast, conforming to Confederate regulations. The CS-177-A buttons bear the backmark “S. ISAACS CAMPBELL & CO  71 JERMYN ST  LONDON”. The button holes are conventional in style and type, being hand-sewn with black thread over a larger brownish thread around the edge of the button hole. The standing 1 5/8” collar is made of two pieces and lined with the same material as the coat.

There is no indication that the collar ever had any type of insignia attached. The 2-piece sleeves measure 5 1/4″ across at the cuff and 9 1/4″ across at the elbow. There are no colored facings on the non-functional cuffs. Each cuff has three small 14mm Confederate script “I” buttons, bearing the backmark “TREBEL RICH STANDARD” and identified as CS-177-Av. Each sleeve bears three strands of gold bullion “Austrian knots”, which is regulation for a Major, Lieutenant Colonel, or Colonel. This large, flamboyant insignia extends 15 3/8” up the sleeve from the edge of the cuff. The skirt of the coat is of conventional frock coat form and originally had four coat-size buttons, similar to those on the front. The two upper buttons are missing, but the two on the ends of the pocket flaps remain present. There are pocket bags on the inside of the skirts under the lining made of dark brown, lightly glazed cotton. The frock coat is lined in the button falls with the same material utilized for the coat. The upper body is lined in a dark blue, tabby weave wool flannel. There is a 6 1/4″ x 7” patch pocket at the left breast made of the same material as the blue lining. The entire skirt is lined in what appears to be a very fine greenish brown cotton material. The sleeves are lined with a coarse, light brown cotton twill. The front of the coat measures 17 1/8” from the bottom of the collar to the waist seam.

The back of the coat measures 19 1/2″ from the bottom of the collar to the waist seam. The skirt is 21” long in the front and 3/8” longer in the back. Accompanying this fine coat is a matching set of trousers of the same material with an adjustment belt in the rear and a Japanned buckle marked “PATENT  1855”. The fly consists of two layers of trouser material lined with dark brown cotton that is closed by means of four black Japanned metal buttons measuring 13mm. The waistband closes with a single button of similar form but measuring 17mm. Perhaps the most important button on the uniform is an inside Japanned metal button for inside closure of the fly to maintain a flat appearance. This 14mm button is clearly marked “WM. POOLEY.  MEMPHIS TENN.” The pants are lined with a light-colored cotton twill, and the material appears the same on the pocket bags. The trousers have side slit pockets in line with the dark blue velvet-piped seam. This uniform was originally found at a yard sale near Dallas, TX, in the 1970s, and at one time was accompanied by a white cotton vest with Mississippi “I” buttons. The William Pooley button indicates that he was the tailor who made the uniform in Memphis, TN, and we can assume, because of the aforementioned vest, that it was for a Mississippi officer of a rank from Major to Colonel. All buttons, whether script “I” buttons or black Japanned pants buttons, are original to the coat and further reinforce the assumption that William Pooley created this exceptional uniform. Since Memphis fell to Federal forces in June of 1862, it is quite likely the uniform was made during the first year of hostilities.

UNATTACHED ACCESSORIES: a looseleaf binder containing several images of the uniform and the vest that once accompanied the set. The binder also contains a detailed letter from Les Jensen of New York, authenticating and describing in great detail the uniform and its manufacturer. Also included is the original letter written by Mr. Jensen to a previous owner when the vest still remained with the uniform.